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Semuc Champey

Posted by: Miriam

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Miriam
Semuc Champey (a Maya word)is a nature park renouned for the tourquoise-green, gently cascading pools which are located atop of a huge natural limestone bridge. Under the bridge, the Cahobon river rages, until the two connect at the base of the pools (see photos).
We took a guided trip into the park for information, safety, and to push ourselves to do things we perhaps wouldn't feel comfortable doing on our own, such as cliff jumping and using rocks as a slide...which I declined doing after seeing two scraped, raw tooshies standing uncomforably before me.
The hike up took about a half hour and had perks like skin detoxing (a.k.a so much sweat that you couldn't see at times), plant identification, and community knowledge. Half of the park entrance fee goes into maintaining the park, whereas the other half goes to the communities that upkeep the cocoa farms on the land.
The Cohabon river roars before (below) and after the pools begin, and story goes that before safety rails where put up, people would get too close to the edge, fall in, and would come out at the bottom of the gorgous pools missing heads and limbs.
We spent the afternoon swimming lazily in the cool pools, jumping from safe and unsafe places, having to use our own judgement to keep us safe, sliding, falling, laughing, finding waterfalls to massage our backs with power and force, while others created little hiding areas under small cave overhands. The camera didn't come. Take a moment and imagine the bliss.
 
 
Truth is that not all was fun. On a sliding, out-of-control miss-hap Sarah either jammed or broke her finger. She also got a raw left butt cheak and a skechy cliff area that required a running jump off an intensely slippery surface had an accident the day after we visited the park...with our same guide. We both declined the jump and did a smaller, safer jump instead. Story goes the American girl jumping didn't clear the rocks enough and cut, bruised, and scraped the entire side of her body and face. Overall, she was fine, but after a trip to the hospital our guide was put on a six month suspension.
Where the river and pools merge at the end of the limestone bridge.
 
After a pre-lunch lazy tube down the river (which ran infront of our hostal), we headed to the Kan'Ba caves. In retrospect I could have brought my camera, but everyone told me I couldn't...although I could bring a headlamp??? Anyhow, no photos of this adventure. First, I will say that this would never be allowed in the US of A. We entered the caves with water to our knees that just got deeper. As candles in our hands were our guiding light, we made our way up rickety ladders, climbed straight up a waterfall using a rope, and swam in deep tunnels as one hand lit the way with the candle above water. I would have been freaked out if I were not a strong swimmer. There were times I was freaked out despite my experience in the "outdoor world" and swimming. But, that's what makes candle-lit, waterfall-cave adventures in foreign lands so enticing. Besides Sarah hitting a rock and scratching her foot (blood dripping into water), we came out with smiles on our faces, ready to do it again!
 
But, it was time to move on, and in the morning we got to have a different kind of adventure.
 
After a 4:30am wake up to catch a 6am bus, which we were told by the guys in our hostel wasn't going to come to the hostel afterall, but would meet us in Lanquin (a half hour away), we didn't get picked up. We got to play the "being lied to/shady dealings game." Tired, itchy, grumpy, and ready, we waited. Waited, and waited...getting so see the stillness of the morning turn into a quick, beautiful sunrise.
After four hours of waiting, we finally hopped on a large shuttle bus to Antigua.
 
 

Coban and Onward

Posted by: Miriam

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Miriam
In a daze, we made it to steaming Coban...a small town of about 55,000 people, one small museum of tiny Maya artifacts and that's about it. We came here to sleep, figure out details, and sleep some more. Our seafoam green hotel, La Paz, we simple, full of plants and kind of an odd throw back to the 40's.
Besides the couple of small, crawling around cockroaches in the bathroom that gave Sarah a small heart attack, and the hot water that cycled on and off (to frigidly cold water) while showering, the 35Q (about $4) a night served us well.
Thank goodness there were sheep to count on the curtain as I fell asleep!
There were so many tourists around (read sarcasm) that after asking a couple of questions at a travel agency about how to get to Semuc Champey, they came to our hotel at 8pm to try to seal the deal, then semi-chased us down in the street after 10pm while walking back to La Paz after an inexpensive tradiational dinner of chicken, pasta and tortillas.
After making a 10:30pm deal to get to Semuc Champay in a private shuttle (welcome to wheeling and dealing in the slow season) we were ready the next morning to hop on an 8am microbus for the 2.5 hour trip over bumpy, unpaved, windy roads.

The fresh morning in Coban quickly turned even hotter and more humid as we made our way into the jungle. Because wheeling and dealing never ends, we were first brought to a hostal run by the tourist agency that provided our transportation. They were hoping we would stay at the hippy infested, quiet, remote site, but after learning about some local plants, watching a smelly European do some crystal ball tricks, while another smelly American practiced juggling, we quickly saddled up and headed to El Portal, a hostel located five minutes away from the entrance to Semuc Champey.
Cardomom. Tastes like you are putting dirt in your mouth, which then becomes spicy.
 
Choite. A red seed used for food (very common in Mexican foods) and for dying. I rubbed it all over my fingers and after multiple soap washes couldn't get it off. La vida!
El Portal. Located up on a hill overlooking the roaring river below. Little bungalows amid the jungle; scattering the hillside.
The bunk house. Summer camp anyone?
 
Besides terrible food, the place was very chill and a great spot to swing in a hammock and relax (when you weren't gallavanting about in the water or caves.)
 
The roaring river below, which we attempted to swim in, but the current was too strong around the rocks. Instead we tubed down it with our "tour" group. It was also frigid water, but after a hot, humid hike, the "refreshing" water was a gift.

Two cuties successfully selling home-made chocolate. Cacao trees dotted the surrounding hills and was the major source of income for the locals. The girls are wearing local dress...the skirts are all pleated and flowing campared to Xela and Lago Atitlan, and rather than wearing a fitted, lace shirt, they all wore bag-like loosely knit shirts with tank tops underneath.


Hitting the Road

Posted by: Miriam

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Miriam
The final days in Xela consisted of dinner with friends, dancing, and ultimately getting on a 4am bus to Guatemala City, then Coban, in search of "one of the most beautiful areas of Guatemala - the emerald pools and waterfalls of Semuc Champey."
Every other night at Casa Latina seemed to be nacho night. No, really! Thank you Sarah, Monique and Robbie for welcoming me so opened-armed into your humble abode. It felt as if I had family in Xela! And the nachos just kept getting better.
Cutey Monique from Australia. She'll be in Xela for another month and a half...and perhaps will return to Uni to study international relations with a focus on Latin American Studies. Monique is traveling through Central America for six months, with a longish, spontanious stop in Xela to learn Spanish. She is 23 and my role model.
Our ultimate night: Nachos night at Casa Latina, then a masquerade party at Ojala...the best place to go on Friday nights (in my humble opinion). Sarah's cat mask was far superior to my five minute half mask...maybe next time I'll go all out. Oh, and if you hadn't figured it out by now, this is Sarah from San Fran...my traveling buddy for the next two weeks.
Jimmy, one of the mixers/djs happened to work at Los Chocoyos, where I was staying for the week, so he was in essense my neighbor. I had "kitchen talk" daily with him. He's a modern cowboy. He taught me some latino dance moves and twirled me about. Being a dancer (I'm not talking about club grinding dancing either) is a semi-secret passion of mine. It got to come true for ten minutes on Friday. Gracias, Jimmy!
After dancing til 1am and not sleeping because of fear of missing the taxi to take us to our 4am transport, we groggily passed the next four hours in our direct first class Linea Dorada bus. The curvy roads through mountains, around Agatha rockslides, and throught the pink hues of the sunrise rocked up back and forth in a zombie-like lulliby.
At 8am, we did our Guate City transfer onto the Monja Blank line to Coban. Besides having to take turns sleeping because of the two large women sitting across from us who were obviously eyeing our bags, the ride went smoothly.
There is a constand reminder that if you would like to torture me, put me on a bus with only fried chicken and french fries to eat for eight hours. Then put me on another one the next day. Long bus rides with bad food = torture for Miriam. The smile in the photo is one of insanity. 
As we approached Coban the mountains got greener and the trees got lush. Dry turned to wet and tropical. The cool air of Xela turned to hot, humid, thick sweat. I suppose that's one beautiful aspect of many countries...after a day in a bus you find yourself in a completely different land. The magic of travel.

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